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Saturday, February 26, 2011

Ferran Adrià coordinará los próximos cinco años un curso de cocina en Harvard

Girona, 21 feb (EFE).- El chef de El Bulli, Ferran Adrià, coordinará por otros cinco años el curso de cocina que ya imparte desde 2010 en la Universidad de Harvard, en EE.UU.

Además de coordinar este curso, que impartirán célebres cocineros españoles, Adrià ha aceptado ser profesor invitado de ese centro universitario y ofrecer cada año académico, durante los próximos cinco años, un curso de quince días de duración.

Adrià firma hoy en Girona el acuerdo para materializar este proyecto con representantes de la Universidad de Harvard, que se compromete, a su vez, a apoyar la futura Fundación El Bulli.

Tras la sesión inaugural del Foro Gastronómico que se celebra en Girona, el cocinero de El Bulli ha explicado que, de cara a los próximos cinco años, su intención es incorporar nuevos cocineros a los cursos y se ha confesado emocionado por haber contado con seiscientas peticiones de personas interesadas en participar en el primero de los cursos.

La única exigencia de Adrià a Harvard ha sido que sus clases como profesor invitado consistiesen en "unos diálogos sobre creatividad", por lo que cada tres meses organizará una actividad en El Bulli, que ya estará cerrado, con profesionales del sector para idear los conocimientos que después se trasladarán a esta universidad estadounidense.

El cocinero catalán anunció el pasado año el cierre de su restaurante para tomarse dos años y medio de descanso y trabajar en la nueva Fundación El Bulli.

Ferran Adrià ha confirmado además que mientras El Bulli permanezca cerrado participará en una gira por España y en otra organizada por Telefónica en países donde esta compañía cuenta con presencia.

Adrià ha detallado que esta compañía de telefonía ha considerado interesante "la relación entre gastronomía y salud" y cree que será "interesante ejercer de embajador por el mundo".

"El proyecto de Telefónica gira sobre qué hace feliz a la gente", ha indicado el cocinero catalán, para quien la solución muchas veces es "ayudar a los demás".

Ferran Adrià ha insistido en que la conferencia que hoy ha ofrecido a los participantes en el Foro Gastronómico sobre cocina de caza ha sido la última en la que participa por un período de tres años.

Adrià se centrará a partir del cierre de El Bulli en su nueva fundación, con la que, a su entender, lo que hará es complicarse "la vida".

La firma del acuerdo entre Ferran Adrià y Harvard, en el que se prevé que esté presente el presidente catalán, Artur Mas, tendrá lugar a las 19.00 horas de hoy, y el primer curso de ciencia y cocina en esta universidad estadounidense está previsto para septiembre de este año.

Las clases serán impartidas por una serie de destacados cocineros españoles de prestigio internacional, como Joan Roca, Carles Gaig, Carles Tejedor, Fina Puigdevall, Pere Planagumà, Enric Rovira, Ramón Morató, Nando Jubany y Carme Ruscalleda, además de Adrià.

El curso va dirigido a la comunidad educativa de Harvard, con una previsión de asistencia de unos trescientos alumnos, y cuenta también con sesiones públicas de divulgación general.

Fuente: EFE dar/pll

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Death Comes for the Traditionalist: Chef Santi Santamaria (1957-2011)

Santi Santamaria, chef of El Racó de Can Fabes outside of Barcelona. died today in Singapore. The first chef in Catalonia to earn three Michelin stars, he was known for adapting Catalan flavors to French techniques. But his greatest fame may rest with the very public attack he launched on his fellow Catalan chef Ferran Adrià of elBulli, at a time the latter was being hailed as the best chef in the world.

Santamaria came relatively late to the profession. Born in 1957, he studied to be an industrial engineer, and never received formal training as a chef. That didn't stop him in 1981, however, from opening a simple tavern in the Catalan farmhouse where he, his father, and his grandfather had all been born. At first, Santamaria contented himself stewing white sausage with beans for 395-peseta meals. But as he gradually learned about Juan Mari Arzak's new Basque cooking and France's nouvelle cuisine, his own dishes became more sophisticated. At a time when Spanish cuisine was known for little more than gazpacho and paella, Santamaria began receiving acclaim for elevating the flavors of his beloved Catalan countryside by wedding them to the techniques of nouvelle cuisine. He earned his first Michelin star in 1988.
(Debating the merits of molecular gastronomy.)

He would go on to open successful restaurants in Madrid, Barcelona, and Dubai, and eventually earn a total of seven Michelin stars. But Spain's culinary fortunes were pointing in a different direction. As chefs like Arzak and Adria began to experiment wildly with cuisine's possibilities, Spain became known for an avant-garde style of cooking that had few precedents. "In terms of creativity and breaking new ground, he didn't have an impact," says Pau Arenos, food writer for the Barcelona newspaper El Periodico. "He never really understood techno-emotional cuisine. He was never comfortable with it."
(See how Ferran Adrià brought his cuisine to Harvard.)

That discomfort first rose to the surface at the 2007 edition of Madrid Fusion, an international chefs conference. Speaking earthy truth to gastronomic power, Santamaria used his presentation to lambast his audience for "snobbery" and reminded them that "all good meals end with a good shit."

But it was in 2008 that he really provoked a scandal. Receiving a prize in May for his new book, The Kitchen Laid Bare, Santamaria took the opportunity to criticize fellow chefs for "legitimating forms of cooking that distance them from the traditional." Calling on Spain's health minister, who was seated in the audience, to protect the unknowing public against the use of the additives sometimes used in haute cuisine to achieve spectacular effects, he railed against "cooking with chemicals like methylcellulose whose consumption could be dangerous." And in case anyone missed the reference to elBulli's famous chef, he named names. "I have an enormous conceptual and ethical divorce with Ferran; he and his team are going in a direction contrary to my principles."
(Comment on this story.)

Within days, the national and international press alike were chortling over the "War of the Stovetops." The European chefs' organization, Eurotoques, issued a statement expressing its indignation at Santamaria's "act of aggression." Madrid chef Sergi Arola accused Santamaria of mounting a personal vendetta "out of envy." Andoni Luis Aduriz, of the two-starred Mugaritz, told the New York Times, "Santi is the Hugo Chavez of gastronomy. He loves to spark controversy with his populist talk." Adriá himself worried the injury that Santamaria's comments would do to Spanish cuisine's reputation abroad.

Spanish cuisine survived the trauma. Santamaria, however, did not for long. He went in a way befitting a great chef: while eating lunch in one of his own restaurants in Singapore. Restaurant manager Ruben Mallat said it may have been brought about by a heart attack or embolism, though the cause has yet to be determined. Aduriz lamented his passing. "Despite all the discrepancies and differences we had, today is a sad day for Spanish cuisine."

Source: Time